You’d be forgiven if, after reading Rick Steves’ guidebook chapter on Hvar and the warnings about the overwhelming crowds, heat, and prices, you decided to skip the island altogether. But remember that he’s referencing the prime of summer season. Our visit to Hvar in late April couldn’t have been better timed: we enjoyed gorgeous weather for all three days; most restaurants and shops were just re-opening for the season; the small ship cruises and day trippers from Split were minimal; and the whole vibe radiated peaceful, quiet, and calm.
Hvar
We stayed in a Booking.com house rental a short walk uphill from where the Dubrovnik-Hvar ferry stops. The views were incredible and we enjoyed early mornings and evenings relaxing on the terrace and side patio. A 20-minute hike up the hill brought us to Hvar Fortress overlooking the bay, which is worth it for the view but not to visit inside.
We wanted to visit some of the surrounding Pakleni Islands off the coast of Hvar but the excursion options were limited in the off-season (and too frankly long – we didn’t want to spend 10 hours on a tour, especially as we already did a boat tour and visited another “Blue Cave” in Kotor Bay, Montenegro). Instead, we started contacting some of the WhatsApp numbers posted on small boats around the Hvar harbor, as we read that we could rent our own boat for a few hours without a license. One responded and we met up later that day, where he asked if Dave knew how to drive a boat and, apparently satisfied with the minimally confident affirmative response, handed over the keys. But we had a really fun afternoon on the water, stopping for a jump in the sea (cold!), and even Jacob got to practice his boat-driving skills a bit. Interestingly there were a lot of jellyfish in late April so we could not swim in some areas off the islands. We couldn’t get over how crystal-clear the water was in significant depths, even with all of the boats around. Despite the tourism Croatia experiences, somehow the water has remained pristine (for now).
With the remaining time on Hvar we enjoyed leisurely walks around the harbor and through the charming, steep streets.
Trying to avoid many of the touristy, overpriced restaurants on Hvar, we focused in on a few good ones for dinners:
- Konoba Menego – proudly serving only Dalmatian cuisine and no products from outside of Croatia.
- Fig – run by an Argentian team, offering a healthy selection of more diverse dishes.
- Mizarola – excellent pizza and reasonably priced Italian/Croatian fare.
Because the car ferry options were more limited in April via Dubrovnik, we didn’t keep the rental car for Hvar, so we did not have the opportunity to explore more of the island; that might have been a nice add-on had we sailed to Hvar from Split instead. With more time we might have added on Korcula, but from our research it seemed that the more compact Korcula would have less options operating during shoulder season; in summer we’ve heard that Korcula is a gem and often more favored than Hvar for families.
Split
Our last stop on this itinerary was Split, Croatia’s second-largest city. Its main attractions, the Roman-era Diocletian’s Palace and the Riva (boardwalk promenade on the harbor), can be covered in one day but we found ourselves roaming and returning several times during our stay. Part of the allure was fresh gelato for Jacob and some healthy, fast casual dining options such as Good Food (Los Angelenos yearning for a taste of home!) as well as the deliciously simple yet hearty sandwiches at Focaccina.
Diocletian’s Palace, which sits along the harbor in the Old Town, is really a marvel. The palace footprint is so large that it has since been integrated within various buildings, structures, and the street plan, so as you wander, you’re making your way through former Roman ruins at every turn. The main entrance at the Brass Gate leads you to cavernous cellars which were used for filming in Game of Thrones (the dragon “cages”). You then continue onto the Peristyle open square, framed by the Cathedral of St. Domnius and Jupiter’s Temple, and the Entry Vestibule (former domed pavilion leading to the emperor’s living quarters). We enjoyed exploring the twists and turns around the old city within the former palace walls, finally exiting at the Golden Gate to the large statue of Bishop Gregory of Nin (looks like a wizard).
Beyond Diocletian’s Palace and people-watching and shopping at the small stands along the waterfront boardwalk (the Riva), you can also hike up to the Marjan Peninsula, a huge park on the northern end of the Split harbor, for incredible views of the city. We happened to catch a holiday festival, which was filled with local families enjoying dancing, games, and of course, cotton candy. We also went to one of the local beaches, Bacvice, a short walk from our Airbnb, which was popular and crowded even in late April, but a good spot to hang out with a cafe and restaurant.
Day Trip to Krka National Park
Without a rental car in Split, one option is to hop on one of the many guided excursions for a day trip. We decided to visit Krka National Park, known for its spectacular waterfalls (they aren’t very tall, but the setting is quite scenic); it was about a 45-minute to 1 hour drive from Split. We were glad we went with a tour bus because the main route to visit the park leads you on a raised wooden platform nature walk around the lagoons and small lakes eventually downhill to catch a riverboat (included in your ticket) to Skradin, a small town on the Krka River. Otherwise you’d have to do a loop and then drive down to see more of the area. While in Skradin there was a local crafts, artisans, and food market happening, so we had an opportunity to sample many products made and grown in the area. We also hit the pebbly beach and jumped in the river (quite refreshing!).
Our two-week itinerary along the Dalmatian Coast – from Montenegro through southern Croatia – exceeded expectations. You’ll avoid the intense summer heat and crowds and instead enjoy the relaxed, off-season charm of this stunning, sparsely populated region.
