After visiting northern Morocco last year, we returned to spend a few days in Marrakech during an early December holiday break. Again we planned our trip with the help of Morocco Colourful Tours @morocco_colourful_tours which handles the ground transportation, lodging, tours, and more. A 2.5-hour direct flight from Valencia makes this destination accessible for a long weekend. We didn’t want to move around much so we declined the options to tack on a trek to the desert, which is about a 10-hour drive each way. Although there was still a fair amount of earthquake damage and restoration underway in Marrakech, especially in the Mellah (old Jewish Quarter), we were still able to do a lot.
Given the rich cultural mix through most of its history (Berber, Islamic, Jewish, and more), we found the city intriguing and educational. But also exhausting: staying at a riad in the Old Medina means watching your back for speeding motorcycles as they bob and weave through narrow streets and walkways. That was the most treacherous part of our visit. We toured the Old Medina historical sites, including Madrasa Ben Youssef (which is now an architectural museum showcasing spectacular carved wood, tiles, sculpted plaster, and calligraphy) and the exquisite Bahia Palace; the nighttime scene at Jemaa El-Fnaa Square (the world’s largest open-air market, founded in the 11th century) was particularly captivating – the snake and monkey charmers are out during the daytime.
Some other highlights of our time in Marrakech (photos of activities below):
- Dune buggy racing in the desert outside the city. This was Jacob’s favorite activity — he couldn’t stop talking about how much fun it was (Dave loved it too). This was an activity we booked on our own, with round-trip transportation (about a 40-minute drive from the Old Medina). Despite the photos, no, Jacob did not ride an ATV on his own!
- While the guys were racing around the dunes, I did a Moroccan cooking class with Chef Khmisa, preparing a variety of dishes after shopping in the market for ingredients, enjoying the classic Moroccan mint tea, and sprinkling her home-ground spices – my fave was the zaalouk (blistered eggplant starter). I booked the cooking class via TripAdvisor but noticed it’s also available via Airbnb Experiences and Viator.
- Daytrip to the Ourika Valley into the High Atlas Mountains for some hiking and nature, with red sand rockscapes. This reminded us of parts of Utah or Sedona, Arizona. We did a short but steep hike and then found ourselves near the river for some tea and snacks, which even in early December was overrun with local tourist-oriented shops and stands.
- A sunset camel ride in Agafay – it got pretty chilly as the sun went down in the desert, but was also scenic and peaceful.
- Endless shopping in the meandering souks for spices, leather & more. Shopping options are overwhelming, but I found the easiest place to pick up teas and spices at reasonable, fixed prices was Bloty (government-regulated). Other appealing boutiques were Moroccan Touch and Chabi Chic.
- The food was wonderful, people were warm; we were pleased to enjoy prompt, excellent service, a welcome change from Spain. We particularly enjoyed meals at Mazel Cafe (delicious salads and bowls), Bakchich Cafe (classic Moroccan tagines and other specialties), and Ben Jamil (modern Lebanese). Other local recommended restaurants we didn’t make it to included Mechoui, Le Jardin Restaurant Marrakech Medina, and Nomad Marrakech.
A few notes for other travelers to Marrakech:
- We appreciated Riad Nesma’s rooftop where we enjoyed bountiful breakfast and relaxing by a small pool and jacuzzi; the rooms were a bit cramped for the three of us with little natural light since you’re in the Old Medina, but it can be difficult to find multi-bedroom or suite-style accommodations in this part of the city. Also, unfortunately the air quality was also noticeably poor; after 4 days we felt uncomfortably congested in our noses and heads. Although it’s convenient to be in the Old Medina for shopping, historical sites, and exploring, staying outside the city walls might be a bit easier on the body and preferable for bigger families/larger groups.
- Security and customs at Marrakech’s international airport upon arrival can be tedious. Be prepared for very long lines and a wait of at least 1 hour after landing to leave the airport (and that was without retrieving any checked baggage).
